We pick 12 high-style looks from the catwalks of Men’s Fashion Week in Paris and has tips on how to wear them in the real world – with low-cost options from your favourite shops.
Designer Kim Jones dedicated his newest collection to “Paris old and new”. Indeed, his recent work has been a continuing conversation between the past and the future – and nothing evoked his inspiration better than the spectacular coats that featured faded archival prints, innovative cutting and massive utilitarian pockets. With their jackets worn with simple basics, Jones’s men looked slick and sophisticated.
Wear it with: a relaxed, classic pair of denims from Gant Rugger (Dh650) that have been washed to created a worn-in effect, just like that LV coat.
If there’s one lesson to take home from the catwalk of the venerated house of Hermès, it’s that when it comes to accessorising, just let go. Don’t get too caught up, for example, with rigidly pairing your scarf with the rest of your ensemble. Unexpected pops of pattern deliver more appeal than excessively colour-coordinated looks. (PS: that blue bomber jacket is, well, the bomb.)
Wear it with: Can’t afford a Hermès silk scarf, which sell for about Dh2,000 a piece? Try one from that other popular retailer whose name starts with an H: this silk scarf from H&M boasts a delightful scribble pattern – and an irresistible price (Dh59).
The season’s love affair with indulgent pockets continued at Junya Watanabe’s show, where the Japanese designer offered a thoughtful dissection of men’s tailoring. The shirts, jackets and trousers were all crafted the classic way, but featured imaginative twists such as unrestrained pocketing, microprints and patches of colour. It’s meat and potatoes, served with overflowing garnish.
Wear it with: Those ornamented jeans will look great with a simple white tee. Invest in a high-quality one, such as this from Polo Ralph Lauren (Dh205).
For those brave enough to stick out from a crowd, turn to Kenzo’s newest offerings, which designers Carol Lim and Humberto Leon said were inspired by a Blur concert they attended in Tokyo in 1995. But the collection was anything but outdated, and we were especially beguiled by a suit that featured a royal blue swirl.
Wear it with: a canvas belt from Bershka (Dh35). Get one in brown or camel, which complements pastels and blacks.
Dries Van Noten
The Belgian designer collaborated with artist Wes Wilson for the military-inspired graphics that embellished his coats, blazers and trousers. Our top pick is a casual hoodie sweater worn with formal trousers and trainers – a look you can wear in more-relaxed workspaces.
Wear it with: an equally flashy pair of geometric jacquard socks from Springfield (Dh25) – because you either go loud or go home.
OK, the Belgian designer isn’t asking us to start shopping for jumpers in the kids section. Simons is merely encouraging gents to be more open-minded about playing with proportion. Not everything has to be slim-fit or tailored to perfection. There’s charm in slacking off, like with that XXL-size stripy shirt and those ultra-cropped trousers.
Wear it with: carry-on luggage from Zara (Dh420), which would be great to take on your next holiday. After all, relaxed garments are comfortable on a plane ride.
With his latest line, the American designer Thom Browne reflected on the ageing process, sending out models wearing three versions of the same look in varying stages of wear and tear. The tattered looks ended up as the showstoppers, with their rubbed off ridges and repaired edges, and were finished off with bowler hats (made by no less than Stephen Jones) covering the models’ faces. It was all extraordinarily imperfect, which has become one of the season’s defining themes.
Wear it with: with a cotton sweater from Canali (Dh520) – one that’s tightly knitted from breathable, smooth cotton – apt for the current temps. Its rich, burgundy hue would pair nicely with blues and greys.
Hands down the best outerwear of the season was delivered by British veteran Paul Smith, who sent down a sea-foam green coat that left us breathless. We are totally on-board this more casual – even eclectic – direction taken by Smith, who turns 70 this year. His de-formalised, garments are what we’ll be wearing tomorrow.
Wear it with: a lustrous grey silk tie from Hugo Boss (Dh340), which would go well against the shade of the coat.
We’re big fans of Givenchy’s clever pairing of orange with grey. But what truly makes this look stand out is the sharp mix of cotton, suede and wool textures – one that could have easily gone into imprudent territory. Keen to attempt it at home? Mix and match two to three pieces from your wardrobe that feature contrasting textures, keeping in mind that layering is all about harmonious fit and proportions.
Wear it with: a baseball cap from California cult brand Stussy (Dh210 at www.mrporter.com). Hats tone down a busy look – and exude effortless cool.
Who knew a short-sleeved sweater could look this tasteful? Inspired by the modernist art colony of Marfa, a town that sits in the Texan desert, Berluti’s latest line featured down-to-earth designs presented in ultra-luxe style. It’s a look anyone can replicate with ease – just make sure your sweater fits properly, neither too tight nor too loose. And don’t be afraid to wear it in a standout shade, such as this desert-tinged garnet. As the French luxury label’s artistic director Alessandro Sartori once told The National: “All you need is a dose of confidence.”
Wear it with: a pair of Ray-Ban sunnies. These gold frames (Dh655) feature circular lenses that flatter the face.
Comme des Garçons
One of our absolute favourite looks from this season’s shows is probably one of the simplest: a checkered, button-up shirt and olive khakis. The dapper is, deceptively, in the details – just look at those unexpected patches of fabric appliquéd on the shirt and the oversized pockets on the trousers. Plus, that bucket hat is the season’s most coveted accessory. We’d willingly turn this into our daily uniform.
Wear it with: a Massimo Dutti nylon backpack that features decorative leather detailing (Dh625). It’s a bag you can take to work or a weekend getaway.
“It’s about motion and action,” Yohji Yamamoto recently said. The Japanese designer once again delivered practical sportswear at its tailored best during his show for Y-3, the collaborative line he started with Adidas in 2003. We loved the easy trousers and breezy tops, but the true standouts were the oversized, tunic-like hoodies that featured edgy yet fluid silhouettes. Perfect for the gym, but also for lounging indoors.
Wear it with: a pair of Nike Air Odyssey trainers (Dh370). A reissue of the 1987 original, these trainers have been reworked in blue suede, white mesh and petrol-hued leather.
Source: art & life